Day 3. April, 12. Shardzha-Katmandu, by plane.
So happened, that today the members of the '7 summits' expedition and the film crew, who will shoot a documentary 'The gene of height' for the Channel One Russia, led by Valdis Pelsh practically simultaneously with us came to Katmandu. At the airport we were met by the '7 summits' team leader Aleksandr Abramov with the team of guides. He loaded us onto a bus and got us to the hotel.
All members of the ascent stayed at the famous Yak & Yeti hotel, where I have never stayed before because of saving. It was vain - who needs such savings... Royal Palace, converted into a hotel by our compatriot Boris Lisanevich, is worthy of overpayment comparatively to the privately-owned hotels in Thamel (the tourist district of Kathmandu). Boris was a man of marked individuality, but his name is absolutely unknown in Russia: only recently a book "A tiger for breakfast' by M. Pisel was released in Russian.
The following episode is worthy of attention. When Lisanevich rented the other palace, in Kolkata, to open the "Club 300' in it, only 16 days had passed between the day, when the rent contract was made, and the day of the grand opening of the club! During that time the building was renovated: parquet floor was re-layed, the bars were arranged, the curtains were hanged... He was able to organize the process, no remarks! The club turned out a success, because the richest people of India were granted an admittance to it, which were denied to access the other clubs of Kolkata because of strict segregation. As a result of acquaintance with the mighty of this world - Lisanevich staged a coup in Nepal, substituted the reigning monarch for his distant relative and settled in Kathmandu.
35 years ago Reinhold Messner wrote in his book 'The Crystal Horizon: Everest-The First Solo Ascent' that Katmandu is one of those cities, in which he felt the desire to walk down the streets, just doing nothing. He wrote that it's narrow, dirty, everything is full of activity there and that he didn't know the other cities, which would have such a strong smell of life. For the first time Bogovolov was here 26 years ago, I was here only 8 years ago, but Messner's words of 1980 are still true. Katmandu doesn't change much. It's another world, what's important - it is based on other values (in Nepal 80% of population profess Hinduism, it is the only Hindu country in the world). And when you believe in transmigration of souls, then, nolens volens, you direct you attention to the other factors and the habitat is being formed.
At first sight the dialogue between European and local culture is possible on a superficial level. Of cource it concerns the bulk of the population, but local elites, those who have european education, can look at the world from the Occidental cultures point of view. Slowly, with small steps the culture of consumption, which is alien for the local population, is entering into Katmandu. The occidental products appear, the brand shops, oriented exclusively on foreigners for now, are being opened. By the way, the good shop of Russian company RedFox was opened last year in Katmandu, so our group, with its full complement, have visited this shop.
The members of the Everest-2015 ascent in the Red Fox: Vladislav Moroz (the founder of the company) watching Ivan Dushanin (vice president of Mountaineering Federation of Russia), who tries a Polar fleece sweatshirt on. RedFox historically helped Bogomolov with the outfit for the past expeditions. As for me, I prefer Sivera company products. But nevertheless, I bought mittens there - they are very comfortable at first glance - and I got a good discount - a trifle, but nice :)
There was a solemn reception in the evening. The Consul of the Russian Ambassador in Nepal and entrepreneurs, who have business here, were invited. I met the legendary sister of Mingma Gelu Sherpa there, I've heard a lot about her before. Her name is Lhakpa, and she was at the top of Everest 6 times and got into the Guinness book of records for that. She is going to ascend the Everest for the 7th time with us, to break her own record.
At this reception the cultural segregation showed itself too: mountaineers set down at some tables, Nepalese at the others, businessmen, who have business here, and the employees of the Embassy and cultural center - separately as well. The speech of the Russian Ambassador was remembered by its lofty insincerity, incredible duration and common words. My colleagues and I at the table of mountaineers were sincerely happy that we as obliges don't have to listen to the speeches of the nomenclature and diplomatic workers. The Ambassador also tought the tour guide what he needs to show to the group tomorrow at the excursion, and the film director - which moments he needs to emphasize in the film.
The conversation with the leader of Russian cultural Center created an impression too: during the 15 minutes dialogue he wasn't able to tell what exactly does he do, what his work is like, what is the main sense of his work? All his words - about nothing - 'milk and water'. Probably, there is just no special sense at all...
So happened, that today the members of the '7 summits' expedition and the film crew, who will shoot a documentary 'The gene of height' for the Channel One Russia, led by Valdis Pelsh practically simultaneously with us came to Katmandu. At the airport we were met by the '7 summits' team leader Aleksandr Abramov with the team of guides. He loaded us onto a bus and got us to the hotel.
All members of the ascent stayed at the famous Yak & Yeti hotel, where I have never stayed before because of saving. It was vain - who needs such savings... Royal Palace, converted into a hotel by our compatriot Boris Lisanevich, is worthy of overpayment comparatively to the privately-owned hotels in Thamel (the tourist district of Kathmandu). Boris was a man of marked individuality, but his name is absolutely unknown in Russia: only recently a book "A tiger for breakfast' by M. Pisel was released in Russian.
The following episode is worthy of attention. When Lisanevich rented the other palace, in Kolkata, to open the "Club 300' in it, only 16 days had passed between the day, when the rent contract was made, and the day of the grand opening of the club! During that time the building was renovated: parquet floor was re-layed, the bars were arranged, the curtains were hanged... He was able to organize the process, no remarks! The club turned out a success, because the richest people of India were granted an admittance to it, which were denied to access the other clubs of Kolkata because of strict segregation. As a result of acquaintance with the mighty of this world - Lisanevich staged a coup in Nepal, substituted the reigning monarch for his distant relative and settled in Kathmandu.
35 years ago Reinhold Messner wrote in his book 'The Crystal Horizon: Everest-The First Solo Ascent' that Katmandu is one of those cities, in which he felt the desire to walk down the streets, just doing nothing. He wrote that it's narrow, dirty, everything is full of activity there and that he didn't know the other cities, which would have such a strong smell of life. For the first time Bogovolov was here 26 years ago, I was here only 8 years ago, but Messner's words of 1980 are still true. Katmandu doesn't change much. It's another world, what's important - it is based on other values (in Nepal 80% of population profess Hinduism, it is the only Hindu country in the world). And when you believe in transmigration of souls, then, nolens volens, you direct you attention to the other factors and the habitat is being formed.
At first sight the dialogue between European and local culture is possible on a superficial level. Of cource it concerns the bulk of the population, but local elites, those who have european education, can look at the world from the Occidental cultures point of view. Slowly, with small steps the culture of consumption, which is alien for the local population, is entering into Katmandu. The occidental products appear, the brand shops, oriented exclusively on foreigners for now, are being opened. By the way, the good shop of Russian company RedFox was opened last year in Katmandu, so our group, with its full complement, have visited this shop.
The members of the Everest-2015 ascent in the Red Fox: Vladislav Moroz (the founder of the company) watching Ivan Dushanin (vice president of Mountaineering Federation of Russia), who tries a Polar fleece sweatshirt on. RedFox historically helped Bogomolov with the outfit for the past expeditions. As for me, I prefer Sivera company products. But nevertheless, I bought mittens there - they are very comfortable at first glance - and I got a good discount - a trifle, but nice :)
There was a solemn reception in the evening. The Consul of the Russian Ambassador in Nepal and entrepreneurs, who have business here, were invited. I met the legendary sister of Mingma Gelu Sherpa there, I've heard a lot about her before. Her name is Lhakpa, and she was at the top of Everest 6 times and got into the Guinness book of records for that. She is going to ascend the Everest for the 7th time with us, to break her own record.
At this reception the cultural segregation showed itself too: mountaineers set down at some tables, Nepalese at the others, businessmen, who have business here, and the employees of the Embassy and cultural center - separately as well. The speech of the Russian Ambassador was remembered by its lofty insincerity, incredible duration and common words. My colleagues and I at the table of mountaineers were sincerely happy that we as obliges don't have to listen to the speeches of the nomenclature and diplomatic workers. The Ambassador also tought the tour guide what he needs to show to the group tomorrow at the excursion, and the film director - which moments he needs to emphasize in the film.
The conversation with the leader of Russian cultural Center created an impression too: during the 15 minutes dialogue he wasn't able to tell what exactly does he do, what his work is like, what is the main sense of his work? All his words - about nothing - 'milk and water'. Probably, there is just no special sense at all...
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